Grading basics: grade rules and grade breaks
5 min read
Grading builds every size from one sample size. The sample (base) size is measured and approved; the other sizes follow grade rules.
Grade per jump
The grade is how much a measurement changes from one size to the next. For a women's top a typical set is 1 inch on chest (½), waist (½) and sweep (½), 1/2 inch on body length and shoulder, 1/4 inch on neck width and sleeve opening, and 0 on details like hem height.
Grade breaks
Many buyers change the grade at the ends of a run, for example 1 inch between S and XL but 1-1/2 inch from XL to XXL. That is a grade break. It is fine when intended, and a mistake when it comes from a typing error, which is why the studio flags any non-uniform run for you to confirm.
Things that should not grade
Hem heights, rib heights, placket widths, label positions and most trim sizes stay the same across sizes. Grading them makes small sizes look heavy and large sizes look skimpy.
Watch the direction
A value that gets smaller as sizes get bigger is almost always an error. The studio warns when that happens.